FayeRaySews’ Trudy Dress(es!)

admin Hack, Pattern Review, Tips & Tricks 1 Comment

I was first drawn to the Trudy dress as it can be made to look more casual or formal, depending upon your fabric choice – so I decided to try both!

The dresses themselves came together quite easily, once I had made the necessary modifications to the pattern – not unusual for me, so I always make a toile before I cut into my good fabric.

Finished garment measurements are included on the pattern envelope, so taking into account standard ease (which I read somewhere is 2” bust, 1”waist and 3” hips), my measurements put me at a size smaller than the smallest size on the pattern.

The modifications I made:

  • removed 0.5” (1.25 cm) from the centre front and centre back of the bodice and skirt pieces (this was very easy to do, since they are both straight lines)
  • moved the bust dart apex up 5/8” (1.5 cm)
  • extended the shoulder seam by 3/8” (1 cm), grading to nothing at the notches
  • lengthened the bodice pieces by 1.5” (4 cm)
  • lengthened the skirt pieces by 2” (5 cm)
  • lengthened the sleeves (on the long sleeved version) by 1.5” (4 cm)

Although there were quite a few fit adjustments, as the pattern cover declares, they were easy to make.

Firstly, I made this casual version using a cotton from Standfast & Barracks’ factory shop. I admit this fabric has been in my stash for a little while, but is very well suited to this style of dress.

I really love the shape of this dress, and enjoyed nerding out over lining up the darts at the waist seam! The cap sleeves are self-lined, which is great, because you don’t get any seams peeking out and they hold their shape really well.

I also lined the skirt of the dress as I think it would look great with tights, but I didn’t want it to cling. I finished the hem using a machined blind stitch, which is something I’ve done before on dresses with similar weight cotton fabric and it works great!

And now onto my fancy version! I really pushed myself out of my comfort zone with this fabric – not least because it is bright sunshine yellow, bought on a particularly dreary January day from Calico Laine!

This time I chose a collarless long sleeved version, so I could show off this beautiful lace. I mounted the lace onto yellow duchess satin for the bodice, and made the skirt in two separate pieces, joined together at the waist seam, to keep some movement.

I took a little more time over the details on this dress, doing tiny zig-zagged seams on the lace that barely show from the right side and hand sewing the neckline facing down.

I never thought yellow was “my colour”, but I may have convinced myself otherwise!

I love the poofy sleeves, they add a real vintage touch to the dress. I reckon I could convince someone I had spent a fortune on a genuine vintage 60s dress (mum’s the word!).

See you next time!

– Faye

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