The Lapwing Trousers pattern from Simple Sew is a great start for beginners who maybe haven’t had a lot of experience making trousers. I’ll admit, in the past I’ve always been a little nervous about getting the fit right on a pair of trousers.
is a great start for beginners who maybe haven’t had a lot of experience making trousers. I’ll admit, in the past I’ve always been a little nervous about getting the fit right on a pair of trousers.
This pattern is pretty relaxed and comfy though, so not much room to go wrong. This lovely viscose/spandex print jersey from Doughty‘s was a great choice, as there is enough stretch to be relaxed about the fitting. I cut a size 12- the waist looks really huge to start with (especially with this stretch fabric!!) but I knew once the drawstring was inserted I’d be able to happily disperse the gathers around my waist. I wanted to make something somewhere between a summer trou and pyjama bottoms, so was super excited about the wide leg design.
First step in putting the trousers together is attaching the pockets. I thought the pattern instructions weren’t overly clear on how to do this, especially when it came to snipping in and sewing the side seams… I seemed to end up with some little gaps at the top of the pockets? I’ve inserted pockets into side seams before and not had a problem, so maybe I need to revise my technique!
I added some sneaky understitching to the pockets to keep them in place. If I really went to town I probably could have added some stretch stay-tape to the seams just to stop them stretching out… But being a bit baffled by the pattern I couldn’t work out the best time to do this!
Once the pockets are in and the side seams stitched up the pattern is plain sailing. I did a lil try on at the point of having the side seams and inside leg seams stitched up to check fit. Legs and bum look good (that’s all that ever matters right?), but as my fabric has 4 way stretch the way they hang makes them extra looooong!
To make the waistband I added a bit of interfacing to the back of the marked buttonholes for the drawstring. My fabric is quite thin and I didn’t want the machine didn’t chew it all up as I put the buttonholes in. Alternatively it could have been cool to use eyelets for the drawstring holes. I think if I make the trousers again in heavier fabric I will definitely do this.
The top of the trousers is then flipped under by about 4.5cm and stitched. My fabric is soooo stretchy even my walking foot was dragging it out. to prevent drag I put some tissue paper under the foot as I stitched. It really works wonders for creating even stitches all the way round. The paper can then be easily pulled away after and no one knows 😉
I added another line of stitching to the top of the waistband, just to give it a bit more form. I always think this just adds a bit more of a professional finish to an easy fold-over waist.
I made my own drawstring using a length of leftover fabric (from the backdrop of my band’s video if you recognise it!!) I cut so the width was 9cm (ie, 1.5cm x2 for seam allowance and the remaining 6cm folded in half for 3cm drawstring). Okay, so the pink definitely makes them look like pyjamas now haha! I was excited to try on now and tie it up! I think they could have been improved by adding some elastic to the waist, but it’s totally not essential. The drawstring does the job very well and looks pretty cute!
Overall I was surprised by how much I love the trousers! It’s not essential to use stretch fabric as the drawstring waistband allows for lots of room, however I love how comfy they are. I would love to mix up the fabric a bit and make some a bit more outdoor-y. I definitely feel more confident about tackling trousers again now!
Location: Meadow Terrace, Sheffield
Currently listening to: Never Come Back Again, Soft Walls