As lovely Eleanor who blogs at https://nelnanandnora.wordpress.com, already made a full tutorial –click here – on how to make this lovely pattern, I will talk more about sizing and some changes you might need to do to the paper pattern to get the perfect fit.
So, here it goes. These are some of the tools you will need to make the necessary adjustments to your pattern.
First thing first, put on the undergarments you will be wearing with your finished garment.
To decide what size to start with you will need Bust, Waist and Hips measurements. I suggest to use the high bust measurement + 2 if the difference between your bust and high bust is more than 2 inches.
As you can imagine most patterns are made for a certain height and the vertical proportions might not match yours. So I advise you take some further measurements: High Bust, Shoulder to Bust, Neck to Waist, Waist to Hip, Waist to Ankle. This will determine what other changes you might need to do to your pattern. Below are mine.
I start by comparing my own measurements with the sizing guide: As you can see my Bust measurements falls between size 10 and 12 and my waist and hip are a size 10. Usually, it is recommended that you use the higher measurement and grade between sizes. In my case I would need to trace between sizes 10 and 12 in the bust area. Usually, I pick the size of my waist and hip and then consider doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). However some patterns have a lot of ease and sometimes it’s better to also look at the finished garment measurements.
As you see Cara Jumpsuit has a 4 1/2 inch ease in the bust, 10 inch in the waist and 12 inches in the hips. I feel this is quite a lot and a FBA won’t be necessary.
Now it’s the time to start thinking about your personal preferences. Do you like a looser fit or not? What fabric are you using? What is the overall look you are after.
I prefer more fitted clothes. Also for my jumpsuit I am using a crepe backed satin. I feel that a 3 1/2 inch ease in the bust is enough for me, so I have decided to cut size 10 (no FBA will be needed).
Now we are ready to take the tissue paper out of the envelope. Try to smooth it so it lays flat ,ironing on a low setting might be a good idea. I tend to trace my patterns on baking paper (got some catering rolls of the internet – three rolls last me about 2 years). I do this because I know I need to make changes to the paper pattern and might need to re-start again. However, it is perfectly fine to just cut your tissue pattern to your relevant size if you want to save some time.
If you look closely, the envelope shows that the tie channel is about 4-5 inches below the waist. To my neck to waist measurement I added that to get 18″, in order to compare to the pattern.
I always start with the front bodice. Before you make any changes to the pattern, measure along the centre front on the pattern piece from the dotted line ( Fold over line, neckline) and compare this to your neck to waist + 4″. Remember that bottom also includes a 1.5 cm seam allowance so you need to remove this from your calculation before you compare the pattern length to your body length. This will tell you if you need to add or take out. My measurement was shorter by about 1″, which means I need to add 1″ to the length of the bodice.
Draw a horizontal line about 1″ below the armhole of your size. You will use this as a guide to add/remove from the length.
I trace my piece up to the line. I draw this on both the original paper pattern on the paper I am tracing onto. Then I add another horizontal line on the traced paper for the length I need (1″ for me) and then pull up the paper so that the new line is on top of the line on the original piece (the one I am tracing from). Then I continue tracing. If you are not tracing your pattern you would cut along the line and spread the pieces 1″ apart , then place paper underneath to fill the gap and tape in place.
If you need to shorten the pattern draw another line on the pattern with a width that corresponds to the amount you need to reduce the length, fold the pattern piece and tape in place. (For the purpose of this tutorial I added some pins to show you how it looks once the adjustment is done).
Because the pieces on this pattern are quite simple you won’t need to re-draw any lines on the bodice pieces.
Then repeat the a same process for the back piece.
If you find that your body is longer between waist and hips you need to add length on the leg. Just use the same process as before. Draw a horizontal line between waist and hip then lengthen/shorten by the required amount.
I have used the same process to shorten the leg part of the pattern. At only 5feet 2. I always have to shorten patterns by 2″ to 5″. I do this by adding a line through the inside leg notch and then shorten my pattern as mentioned above (I make sure my line is at 90 degrees on the straight grain line to make it shorter/longer evenly). On the leg pieces I do however need to smooth the lines as the pieces won’t meet once the adjustment is done. See the purple line, of my adjustment. That’s the line I eyeballed from my adjustment to the correct size. Try to make it as smooth as possible, using a French curve if you have one.
When tracing the pieces make sure you mark your seam allowances. Simple Sew Patterns use different seam allowances in different areas. If you think you will get confused by this just add 0.5 cm to the areas where the seam allowance is 1 cm. This will mean that all over you will have a 1.5 cm seam allowance.
Now you are all done with your adjustments on your paper pieces. You just need to cut your fabric and sew your jumpsuit.
As I said before if you want you can follow Eleanor’s tutorial , if you feel you need more help to make your own jumpsuit.
I discovered that the fabric I chose is fraying like mad. It also snags easily. However, it was easy to work with. I just needed to be delicate with it and overlock it as I put the pieces together However next time I use it I shall overlock the edges before I start construction. Also, I found that the fabric is a bit too heavy for this jumpsuit, as the fabric did not want to cowl easily. It was just sticking out. To fix it I added a few pleats and stitches to keep them in place to look more flattering.
Here is my version. Oh, if I did not mention this before, I made the narrow leg trouser, or view B
Waw! I feel so posh wearing this royal blue satin. To tone it down, I can wear it with a white jacket.
I love the way the fabric feels against my skin. It is so soft. If you want to use it as well it is crepe backed satin colour royal ( sku 1619- 06) from WhiteTree Fabrics.
Hope that this will make it easier to pick your size and decide if you need to make adjustments to your paper pattern. As you can see this dead easy. And, don’t forget to share your Cara jumpsuits with us on Twitter : @ssewpatterns FaceBook: Simple Sew Patterns @simplesewpatterns Instagram: @simplesewpatterns. We love seeing your versions.
Sewing Adventures in the Attick