I love a pair of wide trousers and the palazzo trousers are a super wide, smooth fronted pair that zip up the back. They reminded me of a pair that I’d had many moons ago, I lived in them. Comfy and smart, what more could I ask for.
I found the most beautiful soft navy crepe on the Sew Essential site and the decision was made instantly. One thing you need to remember when choosing fabric for wide legs is that the fabric needs to flow, unless you want it to stand out of course. I’m only just 5’4” so for me I need flow and more often than not, heels.
First off to choose the size, I cut a 12 as it was the nearest to my hip measurement. Are you a tracer or cutter? I generally cut mine as, well, time.
Lay your pattern out as described in the plan using both of the waistband pieces. The pattern has two so that you can lay them out without having to re-lay the same piece twice.
Once you’ve cut it all out, mark you darts with tailor tacks or chalk and snip your notches (this is sooo much quicker for the edge marks, just a snip 0.5cm into the seam)
Darts are first up, these seem quite long but stick with it, these trousers sit at your natural waist. I seem to have got a bit carried away with sewing and not taking the photos. Doh!
Next up are the pockets. Well they would be but I decided to put slant pockets in and they didn’t work so well. I stitched them closed. Stick with the simple side inset pockets. If I can fit into them without them pulling I’ll let you know. Too many biscuits.
Next join the front to the back at the side seams, it’s nice and easy to press the seams whilst the legs are open. Then join the legs at the center seams from the front to just below the marking for the zip, leave a good couple of centimetres so that you have room to manoeuvre the invisible zip later.
You can then pin to match the crotch seam and whip along the full length of both legs. Ooh, trousers! Well, nearly.
Waistband is next. Interface one piece of waistband and then join them together at the top edge.
Trim back the seam allowance to make it easier to turn and edge stitch on the facing side holding the remains of the seam allowance to the facing. This helps everything lay flat and towards the inside
Now you’re ready to attach it to the trousers. Match the edges and center front and ease the waistband and trousers together. The waistband will have a fluting on the edge but panic not, as long as it’s smooth at 1.5cm where you’re going to stitch, it’ll be fine.
Now, have a quick try on. It’s always good to check the fit before you get the zip in. Tweek if necessary and you’re onto the zip.
Pop your zip so that your zip teeth sit on the seam allowance and stitch down the zip tape just to anchor it.
Now, because you already have the waistband on you need to make sure that the seam lines match up. Before you stitch the other side down, pin the loose side so that the seam lines match and check that there isn’t any extra fabric bubbling about above or below that point. This would be the time to check everything’s level.
Stitch down the loose side in the same way as the first. Do another check, these things move sometimes. Now you can get in close with the zip.
Finish by stitching up that hole that’s always present when using an invisible zip by getting in nice and close with your normal zip foot. Line it up in line with the stitch line of the zip and continue until you can blend in with the seam allowance of the crotch seam.
Next up is the waistband. You can make the ends really neat if you turn back the ends of the waistband and stitch it down on the edge of the zip. It’s difficult to explain so hopefully the pic helps.
Turn the band back and pin before stitching in the ditch. If you’re not sure then you could make a feature and top stitch the waistband. I find the blind hem foot invaluable when edge stitching or stitching in the ditch
Now, pop them on with the right shoes and decide on the hem.
As I said I like to wear a heel with most of my wide leg trousers so this is when I decide just how high I’m likely to wear them.
I don’t like my hems to show for most things so I overlocked the raw edge and hand stitched the hem with a herringbone stitch.
There. Done. Ready for work.
If you’d like to see what else I get up to then do pop on over to my blog at The Fabric Wrangler