Winter Chelsea Skirts – Part 1 from The Wardrobe Architect

Sam Doughtys Fabric, Flat felled seams, Pattern Review 0 Comments

Skirts, tights and boots are steadfast winter wear and our Chelsea Skirt pattern is a popular choice with the blogger team for it’s fitted form, making it easy to wear and style, but also for adding some interesting details, on what essentially is the perfect blank skirt canvas. Below, Jenny of The Wardrobe Architect shows off her version with added flat felled seams and next week in Part 2, we’ll be catching up with Angela of the blog Look’s like I made it to find out more about her mini hacks.

I made the Chelsea Collection skirt for the first time about 3 years ago. I loved it and wore it a lot but it sadly no longer fits me. I decided it was about time I made a replacement to my current measurements.

I made the skirt in my normal Simple Sew size, but unfortunately it is still too small for me. I don’t remember having this problem last time I made it, but there is definitely not as much ease in this skirt pattern as there is in other Simple Sew skirts. I think part of the problem is it is quite a fitted silhouette, and is designed to fit more snugly down to the hips. I have quite big hips so I should have graded out at this point anyway. I have someone in mind who I can give this skirt to, so all is not lost, I have just inadvertently partaken in some selfless sewing!

The fabric is this beautiful Sevenberry indigo cotton from Doughty’s. I absolutely love the Sevenberry Indigo range. The fabric is fantastic quality and the colours are so sharp. Doughty’s have a lot of Sevenberry fabrics in stock, there is so much choice if spots aren’t your thing. This cotton is a medium weight, almost like light canvas weight. For this skirt, a more sturdy fabric is ideal so that it can hold its A-line shape.

The skirt is a series of panels that are shaped to create the A-line shape. There is a waistband and front button placket. The style of this skirt is slightly 70s, whilst being up to date with the slimmer silhouette.

I decided to do flat felled seams, as I did this with my first Chelsea Collection skirt and love the finish. Flat felled seams are also stronger, which is great for a fitted skirt in a non-stretch fabric.

It feels a little strange sewing the flat felled seam as the first step is to sew the seams with the wrong sides together. I sewed all the panels of the skirt together like this before moving onto the next step.

Secondly, decide which way you want the flat felled seam to sit and press the seam allowance over to this side. I made sure mine were mirrored across the skirt so that it looks balanced.

Once you have pressed the seam allowance over to the correct side, there will be a top layer of seam allowance and a bottom layer. Trim the seam allowance of the bottom layer down by half.

The next stage is the trickiest in my opinion. Being careful not to burn your fingers with the iron, fold the top layer of seam allowance around and under the bottom layer, so that it is enclosed by it. Iron it firmly so that it stays in place.

The next stage is topstitching. I used a topstitching thread so that it would stand out and be stronger than a standard thread. I used a blue colour, as I thought the mustard jeans thread would be a little jarring against the fabric.

Once the skirt panels were all assembled and topstitched I constructed the button placket and added the waistband. This is such a simple skirt that it’s nice to spend a little longer on some aspects of the construction. The extra benefit of flat felled seams is that the inside is really clean. I didn’t need to use an overlocker for any of the seams as they are all enclosed

I absolutely love the finished skirt. I’ve just bought myself some more of the fabric so I can make one that fits me! 

Jenny x

To buy your essential Chelsea Collection pattern, which not only includes the featured skirt, but trousers and a blouse too click here and see the full sizing details and fabric requirements below and don’t forget to check out the range of over 50 (yes 50!) Sevenberry Linen Look Cottons from Doughtys.

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